On the road at last!
We flew into Cairns at the crack of dawn at the end of January, after a sleepless overnight flight, only to be interrogated by customs on our arrival about our illegal stash of tea bags and caffeine! Z was stressing the whole flight about whether or not we should declare it, and really started sweating when the sniffer dogs arrived! Predictably we got clamped, but they let us in in the end. Spent a pleasant day in Cairns, which wasn't as bad as folk made out, but a day there is plenty. Flew to Melbourne the next morning, which was a good thing as we narrowly avoided a typhoon which hit the North Queensland Coast, causing widespread flooding.
We spent the first night in Melbourne in a stinky backpacker hostel in the city centre, and then managed to find another place only slightly more pricey (thanks expedia again) in a cool suburb called St Kilda. It was so cool - a lot like Southsea, but hotter and with sandy beach with loads of kitesurfers pulling out wicked tricks. Even met a guy from Portsmouth who'd moved there. There were loads of nice shops, bars and restaurants - not that we ate at them as our place had a rooftop BBQ, so we saved plenty of dollar and ate at home every night. The apartment was great - smack bang in the middle of all the fun, and the views (and sunsets) from the roof were amazing. Live music from bands in the park below; parrots in the trees; smell of barbequeing steak and breathtaking view of the ocean - what more could you ask for?
Melbourne city centre was also cool, if a lot like Manchester or Leeds. Lots of grandiose Victorian architecture and they even have trams like in Manc. There were beautiful parks to chill out and have a picnic in. T was in awe after a trip to the MCG, Australia's sporting mecca - a pretty incredible stadium, directly opposite the Rod Laver Arena and Olympic Complex. Melburnians have all manner of sporting facilities available to them, it's no wonder Aussies are so damn good (shame about us winning the one day series though, eh)? The Australian press can be very bitter when it comes to England and sport, in fact it's very difficult to find an objective opinion amongst their excuses and childish insults! Had a bit of a blow out and went clubbing in Port Melbourne with some Aussie wierdos we met - it was a right good night, although the club was a bit empty, and they were all a bit pretentious (Z had to be smuggled in as she was wearing flip flops).
On our last day in Melbourne we picked up our van and headed off on our road trip up the East Coast, Z's little pin head bobbing at the huge steering wheel. It's a cool van with hob, fridge, microwave and sink, but cost way more than we anticipated so blown budget big time. It's bonkers seeing all the British place names: Stratford-on-Avon, Liverpool, Helensburgh, Brighton-Le-Sands (in the borough of Rochdale) - get yer own names. And if they're not British names, they're unpronouncable Aboriginal names (Croajingolong) or no-brainers like Bruce Highway or Sheila Boulevard. Honestly.
Made a stop at a tiny place called Mallacoota, to break up the 1300km journey between Melbourne and Sydney. It was really wierd at first - full of old people and locals who stare you out when you go into a shop. But on closer inspection, it turned out to be a real bonza place. Set in a UNESCO biosphere national park (Abo name above), it was incredible. There were all manner of exotic flora and fauna, including kangaroos that just stood in the path and stared at you. It's a bit scary coming face to face with a rabbit that's bigger than you. There were black swans, pelicans, the ubiquitous parrots, giant bats, curlews and we even saw a sting ray in the shallows of the lake. We did a huge walk which took us through lush forests of gum trees, heathland, and the most incredible rugged coastline, with beautiful sandy beach and huge, powerful waves crashing against the rocks.
The first night in the campervan was all a bit stressful (esp for Z who had to pee several times in a tupperware box). As we arrived late, the only place we could stick the van was in this guy's front yard (supposed to be a caravan park), and we were packed in cheek by jowl with loads of retirees in their caravans and motorhomes, all giving us funny looks over their cocoa. It was all a bit claustrophobic to say the least. The second night, however was fab. Got a top spot in a park, right on the foreshore, and there were even some young 'uns about. The park was pretty busy, but we managed to get a really secluded spot and it was brill. Had ourselves a right little feast in the van, and a much better nights sleep, and got really excited about things to come!
The drive up the southern New South Wales Coast was very impressive: green, rolling hills, lakes and lots of sheep. Hmm, just like Wales. Had a little stop in Bateman's Bay for lunch in the van (best pasta ever) and watched the fishermen bring in their oyster catch.
Finally arrived in Sydney late last Thurs (8th Feb) and caught up with our Swedish friends Thomas and Caroline, who have kindly put us up until now. They have a wicked apartment in Manly, a 30 min ferry ride from Sydney city centre and oh my god, what a ferry ride - it's incredible! You turn the corner into Sydney Harbour, and there it is right in front of you - the Opera House, Harbour Bridge and their amazing skyscraper skyline. We were like a couple of kids the first time we saw it, jumping up and down all excited (well Z, anyway). And Thomas and Caroline do it every day to get to work, it's so cool. Caroline has even seen dolphins whilst on the ferry. And their lifestyle is wicked. It's only 30 seconds walk to the beach, and there are plenty of others within walking distance. They get up in the morning and go for a swim, then come back and have a leisurely breakfast on their huge balcony with sea view; it's so cool. (Don't worry parents, not decided to move here yet)! Thomas is always apologetic about the fact he's only got a 4-burner BBQ, apparently a reflection on his manhood, as a real man would have a 6-burner! He knows how to use it though, and we've had some top barbies! Everything here is geared towards the beach and the outdoors - they even have plastic money so it doesn't get wet when you're surfing (or skinny dipping - T+T impressed the local ladies whilst out skinny dipping at 3am after a few beers)! T had a go at surfing yesterday and he was brilliant and really enjoyed it, but lost his wedding ring (again) and got stung by a jellyfish. And then his I-pod broke, so a bit of bad luck, but hopefully that's the last of it. Don't know how we're gonna cope during those long journeys in the van without trucking music; we might even have to sing to each other.
Sydney city centre is similar to Melbourne architecturally, but with more distinct areas. There's the sky scrapers of the CBD; "historical" area of The Rocks (first colony formed here- there's a commemorative plaque on everything over 50 years old); Hyde park (stop copying names) with its mass of circling fruit bats; China town where we devoured Singapore chilli crab (2.3kg, biggest + sweetest ever) and residential areas nestled in quiet side streets. Its a very cool place, and another we will be sorry to leave.
Anyway, we've had the best time in Sydney and met loads of really cool, friendly people (Caroline and Thomas seem to know everyone in Manly). Respect to Åsa and Jon, who taught Thomas to surf and got us drunk on Jon's amazing home brew. It was also lovely to meet Mathius (sorry if spelt it wrong) who has the coolest clothes shop/gallery in Surry Hills, and sold T his new favourite T-shirt. Good luck to Tina and Espen with the return to Norway; and hopefully will catch up with Ainoah and Ramon at some time in the future.
We set off tomorrow on our trip towards Byron Bay and Brisbane, with a stop in the Hunter Valley for some wine appreciation, and maybe elsewhere - who knows! Off now to find some Aussie cricket fans to discuss their humiliating defeat at the hands of the motherland, and get a ring tattoed on T's ring finger.
Be in touch soon - don't be strangers....
P.S. going to abandon putting pictures on travelog as seems to be mucking some of them up, so you'll be able to view them all on Flickr as soon as we've sorted it. We'll keep you posted xxx
