Hello Everyone and a very merry Christmas to you all!
Been a bit slack updating the old blog of late - it's those laid back Laotians rubbing off on us. Since our last entry we have spent a glorious week in Laos, and are now back in Thailand for Christmas.
The flight from Hanoi to Vientiane, the capital of Laos, was wicked, passing over amazing mountain ranges. The cloud cover was really thick over Vietnam , and then just disappeared as the tops of the Laos mountains started to poke through. We also went from being freezing, to being roasting hot again. Vientiane is the sleepiest capital we've ever seen - more of a little sea-side resort - off season. Was very nice, though, especially sunsets over the Mekong, with a beerLao. Planned to spend a few nights here, but managed to walk from one end of city to other in under an hour, so got bus the next day to Vang Viang.
This place was really cool. Again, in a valley next to the Mekong river (everywhere in Laos is!), but with dramatic limestone mountains all around - it was amazing! Spent lazy days floating down the Mekong in an inflated tractor tyre inner tube (tubing dude!) drinking beer Lao and doing crazy jumps from bungee type things. Also our first bit of Buudaa since we left. Unfortunately though, too afraid to try out the Happy shakes - they sprinkle some happy shit on drinks and food and then get whacked out! Not sure what it was though and some of the dudes who had it didn't look happy at all, so we thought best give it a miss. Maybe next time... Hired some motorbikes and checked out villages and caves and lagoons and just generally soaked it all in.
Had a great time in Vang Viang, except for a mad German woman. Here's a little tip from those in the know - don't befriend any seemingly eccentric, middle aged German women travelling alone. It can only end in tears. Zoe insisted we help this nice lady with her bags, all innocent enough. We had the misfortune of bumping in to her again that evening, and from that moment on we were hers, and the rest of our days were spent trying to avoid the German: "Operation Code Red" (she had dyed scarlet red hair). She was one of these people who have travelled around a lot (on their own - for a reason) and are full of interesting stories (bullshit), and are basically trying to take you for everything you've got, on the premise that they're poor and old and lonely (and crazy). On our last night (we wanted a romantic one, but ended up spending it with her) - she ordered a starter, two mains and desert (big lady yeah) and then came over all funny when it came to paying the bill! Anyhoo...
After a few days, we got a bus to Luang Prabang and again spent a few days in Operation Code Red (she arrived there the day before us)! Had a narrow escape one day (luckily we were on bikes so, heads down, we speed-pedalled our way to safety), but otherwise we enjoyed Luang Prabang on our own, which was great...until Scottish dude - more later. The bus journey there was incredible. Winding roads through lush green mountains, sometimes with sheer drops. Passed through loads of little villages, where the kiddies would come out and wave at you. The town of Luang Prabang is a UNESCO world heritage site and it was beautiful. Full of tourists though, so very expensive. By the Mekong (no shit), it was full of lovely handicraft shops and art galleries, and there was a cool street market in the evening. We now have to come back to India, Vietnam and Laos after we buy a house to buy pretty things (Zoe). Spent an evening with Frenchman, Ben (proprietor of our hotel), drinking the local tipple LaoLao. Ben insisted it was medicinal due to all the herbs it contains. It comes in any bottle the person who's making it has to hand, and is actually quite tasty (but lethal). Got up at 6am next morning as T wanted to go for a run and Z wanted to go for bike ride and see monks on their daily round to receive alms. Now monks will tolerate pictures from a distance if they don't interfere with their concentration and there are no flashes. So what did we see - the tourist mob, millions of them, with cameras in their faces, flashing away. Complete lack of respect and very disappointing. Monks looked really uncomfortable and it just wasn't very pleasant. Anyaway, it was a beautiful morning (except T nearly puked with all LaoLao jiggling around) and got to see sunrise. Thomas is now a Buddhist; we spent many peaceful afternoons chilling out with the monks in serene and beautiful Wats. So, the Scottish guy...
Another older, lone traveller (you'd think there would be warning bells), Scottish dude, looked a bit rough (skinhead, tattoos, missing teeth), but was friendly enough and shared a few dubes with us, which Z was very happy about. He bought us some beers and was very generous, so we invited him to join us for dinner. It was all very pleasant until he revealed he was a football hooligan (Hibs) and proud of it, with a penchant for stun guns. He then proceeded to tell us the best way to get weapons and send them back to the UK. Needless to say, we spent the rest of our days in "Operation Dangerous Scottish Guy" which was difficult as he was staying in the room next to ours. Ho hum.....
After a few days, we got a flight to Chiang Mai with Laos airlines. This took some courage, as all guide books and Western Embassies advise against it, due to poor maintenance of planes and lack of equipment which helps the pilot land the plane. Apparently, if it's too cloudy and there's no break in the cloud to land, some of the smaller planes either have to circle until the cloud parts, or go back from whence they came, chickens, pigs and all (seriously). However, it was fly with them, or do a 2 day slowboat journey on the Mekong (which would have been great if we had the time) followed by a days bus journey. So we took our chances, and it was actually a great flight, with great food and free BeerLao - respect to Laos airlines and don't believe all you read.
And so, here we are in Chiang Mai. Spent a few days faffing around trying to sort out our diving course and New Year in the islands, which proved to be difficult as everywhere booked up. Ended up spending loads on hotel for first few nights, but still no room for New Year's Eve and after so maybe kipping on the beach. Haven't encountered any nutters yet, which is good, and have just generally been taking in Chiang Mai, which is a cool, laid back city - we like it. Unfortunately no time to do a hilltribe trek or get into the mountains - maybe next time..
Spent Christmas Eve at the Olde Bell, eating Roast Turkey and stuffing, with all the trimmings (cranberry sauce and even bread sauce - Z very happy), and it was actually pretty good (except for all the old men with their Thai brides). Unfortunately, Z stuffed her face to excess and 2 Christmas puddings later, felt a little queasy, and we had to retire. We did release a candle lantern / hot air balloon thing (you know like the ones at Glasto) for you all, to wish you good luck in the New Year. Keep an eye out for it.
And so, it's now Christmas Day - Merry Christmas! Hope Santa brought you all you wished for, and you have a great day! We had a wicked Christmas morning. We went on a Thai cookery course and spent all morning and afternoon cooking and eating delicious food. Then had a little snooze and are ready to start drinking and eating again - just like at home (but without you lot). Next stop, Koh Lanta, via Bangkok.
Missing you all a bit, don't be strangers...
Zoe and Thomas xxx
P.S. pictures to follow later, no time now
