Wayne: So we left Penitentes the next day, feeling much more relaxed and full of beans. We were also having to part ways with our now good friend, Beya, who was heading back to Buenos Aires. Goodbye my walking talking phrase-book (she spoke spanish fluently), you will be missed. The plan was to get to Mendoza and catch the next bus north towards Salta, but stopping in each small town for a night on the way. Hopefully get to Salta by Saturday (5 days time) and then to the bolivian boarder by the next tuesday to catch a train up to the Salt flats in Uyuni. This happened more or less to plan except the busses North were full so we had to spend a night in Mendoza, which turned out to be quite fun, and we are no longer catching a train up to the salts flats, but rather getting a bus to the north of Chile, where weīll organise a 4X4 trip through to bolivia across some of the, supposedly, most amazing landscapes from exploding geysers to moon like landscapes. Passing lakes that change colour from bright turquios to deep red. Sounds amazing and I hear a little rough, but well worth it.
So, back to the trip from Mendoza to Salta. The first town we stopped in was called Tucuman, a cute little city where every second shop was a shoe shop... very strange but interesting. We walked around the block about 7 times, unaware we were doing so until Mandy realised she recognised a pair of shoes she had liked earlier and was sure she had seen then pass her by a few times.
That night we decided we would splurge out and have a proper meal in a posh restaurant. So we found the perfect place, had the most amazing meal, drank the best wine and then asked for the bill... about R130 for the both of us. We will definately splurge again soon.
We got up early the next moring and caught the bus to the next town. A town called Taffi del Valle, apparently famous for its cheese. The bus trip was incredible with the scenery changing from flat dry lands to winding mountain passes through tropical jungles, and all so suddenly, it was hard not to spend the entire trip just staring out the window incase you missed something. Most of our previous bus trips have been at night so you tend to miss a lot of the landsape. The hostel we found was this amazing farm house like place. The town was one street, consisting mainly of resaurants and curio shops. It seems to be a popular place for busses to stop and for people to franticly buy stuff and mysteriously vanish an hour later. I was pretty dissapointed about the cheese, not much variety and most of it quite dry, but we did manage to find a good block and a bottle of wine. That afternoon I had a sleep, not feeling well after the bus trip, and Mandy headed off to watch the owner of the hostel wind surf on the nearby lake. This sounded like a good idea until the car broke down and she ended up playing some stone game in the dirt with a local girl for 2 hours waiting to get back to town. She said she had a great time though.... soaking up the sun... Iīm glad I was fast asleep on a soft bed..hehehe.(m: wayne doesnt make this sound fun but i had a great time out doors and i learned a south american game with rocks. the little girls name was lucia.. beautiful ) That night we met up with an american girl and invited her to the hostel for a home cooked meal. This ended up being a feast with about 8 people around the table. It felt very homely in our little farm house.
Day 3 of our fast roadtrip lead us to Cafayete, a strange little town known for producing wine, too small to be a city and too big to be a town, perhaps its in a transitional phase. We did a small trek of 2 kilometers up to a look out point over the city. Nothing too exciting, but a nice bit of sun and fresh air. That night we had an "asada" (braai) at the hostel and ate till we could not eat anymore. We were contemplating staying another day to do a hike through some sandstone valleys, but decided we wanted to get to Salta and spend a few days without having to move before heading into Bolivia, a country not as organised as Argentina (to put it lightly). So the next morning we were off again.
mandy: leaving there was actually the best thing we did as the tour they opperated was along the same strech of road our bus travelled. The landscape once again amazed us. Rock pinicals and Cacti just like western movies, like indian warriors silloetted against the bright white sky and standing on rocks that ranged in layers below from reds to ochers to yellow and strips of blue grey. i was mesmorised.
Somewhere between cafayate and salta we stopped at a house on the side of the road. I was amused by this as we were able to buy the freshest most delicious cheese and salami or cheese and ham rolls for one peso- two rand. A brilliant way to make money here. I guessed that the house must have beloged to somone the bus driver knew, or possibly his family. This is a brilliant concept in a country where being an entrapanier(sp?) is not the norm.
Anyway we arived in salta at about mid day pleased to find out that it is finally warmer here than what we have been experiencing in the way of weather. the city is to small to be called that really and we have been told that it is a good introduction to what we are in for further north. It is clear to see the economic crisis here. The elaborate signs that once must have glowed with neon on EVERY shop front are mostly now broken. but business still seems good and people are well dressed and business like.
After finding out the hostel we had planned on staying in was more like a hostel for veterin backackers we got a taxi and went around town looking at others and finally settled one called Terra Oculta( terra cotta) Here we met Magie a girl who we had met in los penitentes and as sheīd been in town a few day she took us out to a pizza place and later took me to the market.
It is the most incredible place.. fruit, veggies, herbs, spices and local foods and meats of all kinds. it was so great to see fresh veg that i bought ingredients for that night and made a massive pot of butternut soup. it was great. with dinner goes wine and we managed to polish a few bottles and got in the mood to go out, so we gathered everyone in the hostel and went of to a bar called barnies( as in the simpsons) and then to a bar called zeplins. the cuba libras ensured a good party and we danced all night, arriving home at 6.30 in the morn. I am still amazed at the general atmosphere in pubs and clubs here. There is absolutely no agression or agro. people seem to all chat at random to who ever is around. it is really great fun.
So the plan from here is to go north... cross the border into chile and get onto a 4x4 tour that will take us through into bolivia and the salt flats... we have been told to take extra food as there in minimal on the tour and to stock up supplies as they are not east to find ... so we will write as soon as possble.... let the games begin.
