Right sorry about the delay, we ended up sprinting down to Uyuni, and now after spending 4 days on the moon we can carry on were we left off.
From the Jungle we were taken back to Rurre so we could have a wash get some more clothes and of course buy more Ron. After a few hours preparation we headed for the local booze shop. Now on first name terms with the owner we got our much needed 4 bottles of Ron and headed to the tour agency ready for our next adventure.
Our guide on this trip Nicholas had met up with us in the Jungle for the last night, along with his well built pal Jesus (Megs and Cath drooled for 3 days and seemed not to care about finding Anacondas. Sarah seemed more interested in ensuring a totally wheat free diet) and his stunning girlfriend name never disclosed (Steve and Ian, drooled for 20 minutes before realising she was a trophy, and the biggest reaction you could get from her was a petite, shy smile. Russ was lost in his search for Anacondas)
A 4WD appeared, our stuff was loaded and then we had the fun of working out the seating arrangements, we seemed to have an extra couple of people and after a few different positions we decided that three in the front, 4 in the middle and 4 in the back was the best way for it. So off we headed on our 3 hour drive to a small town where we would jump into a dugout canoe and head into the Pampas. It was a red hot day, must have been at least 35 degrees with near 100% humidity. Well to try and keep our hangovers at bay we had a small sip of Ron and dug in for our hot journey. Well Jesus took this has a sign from his old man, and 20 minutes into the journey he jumped out and bought himself a bottle of 96% Sugar cane stuff. Back to that later on ..
After about an hour of bumpy, dusty roads, Bang a tyre goes. No Problemo says the driver, 20 minutes and we'll be off. So we all dive out and head for the nearest tree, to sweat it out. After several near misses with semi trailors, our driver had decided to stop the 4wd in the middle of the road, and about 40 minutes later, we all head back into the truck looking like we have just been swimming. Another shot of Ron and were back into it.
We finally get to the river and stop for lunch while Jesus loads up the canoe. Now we have all eaten steak that was a little tough in our lives but what was served up to us that lunch time couldn't even be described as steak. We had been told before lunch that there were no knives, We thought this would be a problem but it proved not to be as even a knife would not have been able to get through this. With both hands holding on we all valiantly attempted to gnaw through it but unfortunately we realised that it would be impossible. Ian dumped what remained of his on the ground for one of the kittens and even it was having trouble, with both paws firmly clasped around it and it's sharp little teeth trying with all it's might it managed to get a tiny piece of meat, when we left it was still going for it, it probably still is now.
So after that fantastic lunch we all boarded the boat for the 2 hour ride to the camp. This was a little more comfortable as they provided outdoor chairs for each of us to sit on. Along the way we saw loads of wildlife, different birds, alligators, turtles and capaybara (huge rodent). We arrived at the camp and realised why there were a few extra people, apparently they had only just restarted doing tours as not long ago bandits had come through and stolen most of the camp. It was fine though, they had already rebuilt the sleeping area and the three days that we were their they managed to get most of the dining/cooking area completed.
That afternoon we went on a boat trip further along the river in hunt of the alusive pink dolphin. On the way to camp Nick had seen one but we all manged to miss it. Unfortunately we didn't see one that afternoon, just more of the aligators etc. We got back to camp and had a fantstic meal waiting for us. They even rigged up a mosquito net over the dinning table as the mozzies were so bad. We got stuck into the ron and card playing, sarah and russ went off to bed and the others joined us. By this stage we had finished the first mix so we had to go and get the rest. We had great fun teaching the others card games and trying the local 96% alcohol, well Ian did I wasn't stupid enough (Shocking stuff, no taste, just a burning sensation). So as per usual we managed to polish off all our ron in the first night.
Something we have neglected to mention is that for a while we have been chewing Coca leaves. As the weeks have gone by we have learnt new combinations of ash, to increase the potency as well as ditching the ash in favour of Bicarbonata de Soda. Again as it works better, and tastes better. Well in the Bolivian Jungle they also use a piece of wood which is also chewed with the Coca. The wood is meant to increase the effect, were not to sure about that but it certainly makes it taste better. That first night in the Pampas after much Ron we were introduced to said bit of wood and some serious Coca chewing from Nick and Jesus. For all those concerned about our chewing habits, the stuff is relatively weak, its main effects our a numb cheek, and a light headedness. Really useful for the morning after the night before and altitude sickness.
We had been told that we were to have an early start in the morning. But with everyones hangovers (including the locals) we started a bit late. After a fantastic breakfast we headed off on the boat to go anaconda hunting. Well it was another very hot day and as we walked among the pampas with Nick out well ahead walking through swamps to try and find the snakes most of us stopped as much as we could and hid out in what little shade we could find. After about and hour of walking around Nick decided it was even to hot for him to continue and didn't expect us pasty white people were coping to well. we got back to the boat and Nick jumped in the water. Kath and I followed suit, it was so hot we didn't care about the alligators or any other thing that might have harmed us. The others wouldn't enter the water so sat on the bank in the baking sun while we all enjoyed ourselves in the water. We got back to camp for lunch and a rest. It was certainly to hot to go out in the afternoon sun. About 4 we headed off on the boat again to go Pirahna fishing. We got to the ponds that they lived in, thank god we weren't fishing for them in the river that we had swum that day, I think I would have died.
Well Russ was the first one to land one. They are not the easiest things to catch. You have to let them have a nibble and wait for a few seconds before they decided to take the bait and then pull them in as fast as you can. Unfortunately they don't stick on the hook that great and we all lost a few on the way in. Once you did get them onto land you had to be careful they didn't unhook themselves there as you couldn't pick them up as they would bite you. Ever time one was caught we had to call out to nick to come and unhook it for us. In the space of an hour we had managed to catch 18 of them. Ian did especially well managing to land 1 fish! Both Nick and Russ managed to get bites! Luckily only scratches Piranha have been known to take fingers off!!! Then we went back to the river to try and catch cat fish with the piranah that were to little for the dinner plate. Again they elluded us. The trip back to camp was great, we all had our torches out scanning for alligators and anything else that we could see. The gators were great, there were loads of them and all you would see was their eyes glowing back at you, with their bodies submerged in the water. Back to camp we waited for the pirahna to be cooked up for our dinner. Again the dinner was fantastic Maria our cook made a great sauce for them and even Ian and I both not great fish lovers managed to eat one. The fish itself wasn't to fishy which was a good thing. As a special treat Maria baked us a cake. Incredible considering her kitchen was a 3 foot bench, and 2 gas rings. With no booze left, and the warning of a very early morning we headed for the safety of our beds and their mosquito nets.
After an early night we got up early in search of the anaconda again. As it was so early it was bearable walking around but unfortunately after a couple of hours we still had not managed to find one. Kath and I managed to find some alligator teeth and I also picked up a few giant snail shells so it wasn't a complete waste of time. In a last ditch attempt everyone except for me and Sarah waded thigh deep across the gator infested lake to see if we could catch a glimpse but again they eluded us and as it was starting to get very hot we started heading back to the boat.
We decided to take the short cut back to the boat as it was getting really hot, so through the water and mud we went. We saw a load of baby alligators and a rather upset mum, Nick told us you could tell by the way she was in the water. We got back to the boat and after another swim, again Ian and the others stayed on the bank. (Mud kept the mossies off, as Meg got bitten to hell, and guess who didnt!!)
We headed back to camp and along the way Steve and Ian caught a 2 second glimpse of a pink dolphin. Nothing to write home about just a pink lump appearing then disappearing. After packing our things we headed back to the boat for our rendevous with the 4WD to take us back to Rurre. During the journey back we had agreed with Steve and Cath that we'd like to try and hire a boat to take us from Rurre down to Guanay a little jungle town roughly on the way back to La Paz. From there we intended to get some transport to Sorota, a highland town with beautiful scenery, where Steve and Cath would head for Peru and we'd head back to La Paz and from there down to Salaar de Uyuni, a massive salt pan, and a crazy plateau full of unexpected colours and shapes.
Well after speaking with Nick he reckoned he could get us down to Guanay for a reasonable price. It would be a two day trip, with a stop over on the river bank. As there is little or no villages along the way we'd take everything we needed with us.
The following day was spent cleaning all our clothes, changing money, and buying provisions. (Not just the Ron this time, we were cooking for ourselves) That night we ended up drinking hideous amounts of booze while resting in our hotels hammock area. The girls headed off to bed relativly early (1.30) knowing they had to be up and out by 9. While the boys typically got leathered and ended up in pieces the following day.
Time to go now so you will find out more of our river trip in a few days. Hope you are all well.
Megs and Ian.
